Welcome to the first of a series of occasional posts celebrating the joys of life in Deia. We begin with the delights of lunch at Cala Deia in C’as Patro March and Ca’n Lluc, the two restaurants at the cala.
If you can, try to walk down to lunch at Cala Deia, or go early in the morning and spend some time working up an appetite by swimming and exploring the area around the cala. From the beginning of summer to the end of the season, the road down to the cala is clogged with cars and trying to find somewhere to park is no fun.
Should you be walking, you can either take the more leisurely route down the road which will take you around 40 minutes or the path that leads from the end of the Clot. This route should take you only 20 minutes or so. Allow an hour to walk back and do so when the sun’s less fierce.
I’ve been eating lunch at Cala Deia for over 20 years and the experience feels the same as it ever did: wonderful.
Walking down, when the road is quieter, will allow you to really appreciate the quiet drama of the landscape. There’s a cave on a rock face on the left just after the path up to the village that was occupied by a hermit one summer many years ago. I always stop and try to imagine what it must have been like to scramble up and down from the cave every day.
C’as Patro March and Ca’n Lluc are as close as can be to the water’s edge without being on the beach proper. They have mouthwatering views of the cala and out to sea. C’as Patro March is raised above the beach on rocks so you also have a great view of the olive terraces climbing up the mountains to the village.
The menu at either restaurant is simple and, as you’d expect, fresh fish and seafood feature heavily. C’as Patro March, which is now famous as the restaurant used in the BBC series The Night Manager, is rather more sophisticated and offers a wider choice. When I ate there with friends last weekend, the fish eaters among us had Denton which is a white fish, lubina – sea bass – razor clams, whitebait and homemade fish croquettes. They were all fresh and absolutely delicious. My friend who had the razor clams said they were among the best she’d ever tasted.
Our vegetarians had Spanish tortilla with salad and goat cheese salad, pimientos de padron, tangy Mallorquin olives and bread.
But, then again, lunch at Cala Deia is about soaking up the island vibe with friends and family in one of the most iconic locations on Mallorca. I’ve been eating lunch at Cala Deia for over 20 years and the experience feels the same as it ever did: wonderful.
Ca’n Lluc offers an even simpler menu than C’as Patro March, as befits a restaurant which has a much funkier chiringuito, beach bar, feel to it. If you want to eat sardines or calamari rings washed down with a thirst-quenching drink barefoot while the sea salt dries on you, without feeling the need to hurry, this is the place. It may also be better for young children who, no matter what’s on the menu, always want a burger and fries.
Whichever restaurant you choose, you’re going to be enjoying the timeless Deia experience of eating fresh seafood surrounded by happy, tanned people soaking up the sunshine and the life-affirming views. You’re going to watch as young children leap shrieking with delight into the sea. You’re going to enjoy lunch and maybe a glass or two of good wine with friends who will remember that day for years to come. You’re going to be reminded of just how beautiful our island is and how lucky you are to be able to have lunch at Cala Deia.
If you’re planning to swim before you eat, remember there can sometimes be jellyfish at Cala Deia. Look for the inflatable jellyfish hanging from the roof of C’as Patro March. Green mean it’s safe to swim.
It’s a wise move to make a reservation at either C’as Patro March or Ca’n Lluc as soon as you know you want to take lunch at Cala Deia. In the high summer season, they’re booked up for days in advance. The number for C’as Patro March is +34 971 63 91 37 and Ca’n Lluc is +34 649198618.